Sunday, 19 May 2013

Starting the North Downs Way - Section 1: Dover to Etchinghill

Well, the day has come! A train from Canterbury East to Dover Priory, then a walk down to the Esplanade where the start/finish of the North Downs Way lies. It's also the start for swimmers crossing the Channel, something I'd never dream of doing, looking at those murky waters and the numerous ships passing by on the horizon! 

The Swimmers Starting Point
So, my journey begins, with the first of many steps! One problem I'm going to have today is the fact my guidebook for this trail has yet to arrive, and information such as maps, etc on the internet is sketchy at best! This means I will be relying on the signs for the North Downs Way, a little acorn on a white/yellow/blue background fixed on posts or stiles marking the route.

My starting point!
North Downs Way Signage
 Argh! I go 100m and straight away I'm heading onto a steep climb! Steps that are not exactly the best! By the time I've reached the top, where the Drop Redoubt (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dover_Western_Heights) is, my thighs are already burning. And there I was thinking I was fit enough for this! However, there is a sign asking us to take a pew and enjoy the view. And what a view it is. 

Some of the steps on the first climb! 
Take a pew, enjoy the view!

View of Dover, with the Castle in the distance
The Drop Redoubt
The Western Heights
I walk around the Drop Redoubt, marvelling at the sheer size and ambition, and continue on the route. A series of climbs and battles through some nettles/prickly bushes and midges takes me slowly out of Dover and onto the Shakespeare Cliff. The Shakespeare Cliff gets its name from its association with William Shakespeare:

"Come on, sir; here's the place: stand still.  How fearful 
And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eyes so low!
The crows and choughs that wing the midway air
Show scarce so gross as beetles: half way down
Hangs one that gathers samphire, dreadful trade!
Methinks he seems no bigger than his head:
The fishermen that walk upon the beach
Appear like mice; and yond tall anchoring bark
Diminish'd to her cock; her cock a buoy
Almost too small for sight: the murmering surge,
That on the unnumber'd idle pebbles chafes,
Cannot be heard so high.  I'll look no more;
Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight

Topple down headlong."

King Lear, Act IV scene VI - The Country near Dover.



John and Yoko?

The Shakespeare Cliff

Walking these cliffs was amazing! 
 Soon we come to a man-made marvel, the nature reserve of Samphire Hoe. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samphire_Hoe) From above, it amazes me just how many million tonnes of rock and debris was used to make this from the building of the Channel Tunnel! I plod onwards, finally sighting Folkestone in the distance. And I nearly get run over by some cyclists on the National Cycling route. One of the disadvantages of being Deaf is not being aware of speeding thugs on mountain bikes. If the signs say cyclist and pedestrians, they should be more aware!

Samphire Hoe


Signs for the National Cycling Route 2
 One of the problems with not having a guidebook with me is I got a bit lost at times, no thanks to the signage being a bit haphazard at times. One took me on a route where there was a drop off the cliff, meaning I had to walk back until I could figure out where the route was supposed to take me. (Probably the main reason I didn't carry on to Wye when I reached Etchinghill.)


There'll Be Bluebells over the White Cliffs of Dover
 I passed the Battle of Britain Memorial, a nicely done statue in the midst of some mounds and a Remembrance Wall at the back, with a cafe to the side. I took a quiet moment to remember the Few, and to glare at the officious elderly jobsworths telling off a family with some young children for letting them run around...


Battle of Britain Memorial
 I now pass Folkestone in the distance, walking up and around the mounds, spurs and the downs, then come out above the Channel Tunnel's car and freight terminal. An ugly scar in the land really.


Folkestone Castle 

Le Channel Car/Freight Terminal
 I come across one of the way markers for the North Downs Way, showing I still have 186km to go to Farnham! After this point, the signage becomes poor, leaving me trekking and trapped in a farmers field, with no idea that I may be trespassing or on the right route. I look up Etchinghill on Google Maps and get a general direction, which fair enough may not be exactly on the route but by this time, I'm a little tired of walking.


Still a Long Way to GO!

View near Etchinghill
 I finally get to the village of Etchinghill at 4pm. I've just missed the bus to Canterbury and the next one's in an hour. I spot a pub, but it's closed. On a Saturday. Never mind, once I get the guidebook, I'll be back here to carry on to Wye and beyond. All in all, I did 23.43km in 4 hours, a nice start to the End2End.

Closed...

Doesn't seem like much!

1 comment:

  1. Well done Son. Hope your guide book arrives soon

    ReplyDelete